Skin sebum: how it affects the face, scalp and hair

Sebum is a natural substance produced by the sebaceous glands of our skin, and it is on it that the health of both facial skin and hair depends. Many people perceive skin sebum as a problem, associating it only with oily shine and acne, but in fact this substance performs important protective functions. Understanding the nature of sebum, its role in the body and how to regulate it will help you choose the right care and achieve healthy, radiant skin and beautiful hair.

What is skin sebum and why is it important?

Skin sebum is an oily secretion produced by the sebaceous glands located throughout the body, especially in the T-zone of the face and on the scalp. This natural substance is composed of triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, and other lipids that form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. Sebum plays a key role in maintaining the health of the epidermis, preventing moisture loss and protecting against external irritants.

Sebum production is regulated by hormones, primarily androgens, so its amount can vary depending on age, gender, and hormonal balance. During adolescence and during hormonal changes, sebum production usually increases, which can lead to oily sheen and acne. However, insufficient sebum is also a problem - it leads to dryness, flaking, and premature aging of the skin.

It’s important to understand that sebum itself is not the enemy. It functions as a natural moisturizer, antioxidant, and antibacterial agent. Problems only arise when its production is disrupted – becomes excessive or insufficient, or when it oxidizes and mixes with dead skin cells, clogging pores.

Sebum on the face: how to recognize the problem

Sebum on the face is most noticeable in the T-zone - on the forehead, nose and chin, where the greatest concentration of sebaceous glands is located. It is in these areas that the characteristic oily sheen often appears during the day, especially in people with oily and combination skin types. Excessive sebum secretion on the face can lead to enlarged pores, the appearance of blackheads ( comedones ) and inflammatory elements of acne.

The main signs of excessive sebum on the face include:

• Rapid appearance of shine – skin becomes oily 2-3 hours after cleansing, especially in the T-zone
• Enlarged pores – excess sebum stretches pores, making them more noticeable, especially on the nose and cheeks
• Makeup that "slips" – foundation and powder do not stay on the skin, flake off throughout the day
• Acne-proneness – excessive sebum creates a favorable environment for bacteria, which provokes inflammation
• Oily film on the face – a feeling of unpleasant oiliness and stickiness of the skin to the touch

It is important to distinguish between oily and dehydrated skin – the latter can produce a lot of sebum as a compensatory reaction to the lack of moisture. This condition often occurs due to improper care, in particular, excessive use of aggressive cleansers. Regulating sebum on the face requires a comprehensive approach, where it is necessary not only to control the surface shine, but also to normalize the work of the sebaceous glands from the inside with the help of proper cleansing, balanced hydration and active ingredients.

Sebum on the scalp and its effect on hair

Sebum on the head plays an equally important role as on the face – it protects the scalp from drying out and creates a natural protective layer for the hair shaft. The sebaceous glands on the head secrete sebum, which moves along the hair from root to tip, giving it a natural shine and elasticity. However, excessive sebum production leads to hair quickly becoming greasy, looking untidy and requiring frequent washing.

Problems with sebum on the scalp are often accompanied by other symptoms - dandruff, itching, inflammation. This can be associated with seborrheic dermatitis - a condition in which excessive sebum becomes a breeding ground for the yeast-like fungi Malassezia. The result is not only an aesthetic problem, but also a real discomfort that requires specialized care.

The balance of sebum on the scalp depends on many factors: genetics, hormonal background, diet, stress and even environmental temperature. In the summer, sebum production usually increases due to increased temperature and activity of the sebaceous glands. The right selection of hair and scalp care products helps maintain an optimal balance and keep hair clean and healthy for longer.

Sebum in hair: when protection becomes a problem

Sebum in the hair acts as a natural conditioner, but its excess creates an unpleasant effect of "greasy" roots with dry ends. This is especially true for long hair, where sebum does not have time to distribute evenly along the entire length. As a result, the roots need frequent washing, while the ends suffer from a lack of nutrition and become brittle.

The distribution of sebum on hair depends on its type and structure:

• Straight hair – sebum easily slides from root to tip over a smooth surface, so this type of hair gets oily the fastest, often the very next day after washing.
• Wavy hair – sebum is distributed moderately, creating a balance between roots and ends, but requires regular monitoring
• Curly and Afro hair – due to the complex structure of the curl, sebum is distributed the worst, so such hair is often dry along the length with oily roots.
• Thin hair – gets covered with sebum more quickly due to the smaller thickness of the shaft, looks greasy and lacks volume
• Thick hair – retains sebum better within the structure, so it retains freshness and volume longer

The key to healthy hair is balance. You shouldn’t completely strip your hair of its natural sebum by over-washing it, but you shouldn’t allow it to build up too much either. The optimal frequency of washing depends on your individual needs: some people need to wash their hair every day, while others need to wash it twice a week. The key is to listen to the needs of your hair and scalp, tailoring your care to your specific type and condition.

How to choose a sebum-regulating shampoo

Specialized oil control shampoos are designed to regulate sebum production and effectively cleanse the scalp without overdrying it. A quality shampoo contains ingredients that gently remove excess oil while maintaining the scalp's natural balance. These products usually contain salicylic acid, tea tree extract, zinc, clay or charcoal, which have sebum-regulating and cleansing properties.

When choosing a shampoo for oily hair and sebum control, it is important to understand the difference between the types of formulas:

• Deep cleansing shampoos – contain stronger cleansing ingredients, are suitable for periodic use (1-2 times a week) for deep cleansing of styling residues and accumulated sebum, ideal after using masks and oils
• Balancing shampoos for daily use – gently cleanse and regulate the work of the sebaceous glands, can be used regularly without the risk of overdrying the scalp, suitable for permanent use
• Shampoos with sebum-regulating complexes – contain special active ingredients (zinc, niacinamide, nettle extract) that affect the activity of the sebaceous glands, reducing sebum production at the scalp level.

The correct technique of using shampoo is no less important than its composition. Apply the product only to the roots of the hair and scalp, where the sebaceous glands are concentrated, avoiding the lengths and ends. Massage the scalp with gentle circular movements for 1-2 minutes to activate blood circulation and ensure deep cleansing. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly with cool or warm water - hot water stimulates the sebaceous glands, and the remnants of the product can irritate the skin and provoke a compensatory increase in sebum production.

Causes of excessive sebum production

Increased sebum production can have various causes, and understanding them helps to solve the problem more effectively. Hormonal fluctuations are one of the most common causes. Androgens, especially testosterone and its derivatives, stimulate the sebaceous glands to work actively. That is why adolescents, pregnant women and people with hormonal disorders often face increased oiliness of the skin and hair.

The main factors that provoke excessive sebum production:

• Genetic predisposition – if your parents had oily skin or hair, the probability of inheriting this trait is 60-80%, but proper care can significantly improve the situation
• Poor diet – excessive consumption of sugar, dairy products, trans fats, and refined carbohydrates increases inflammation and stimulates the sebaceous glands by increasing insulin levels
• Stress and lack of sleep – increase cortisol levels, which indirectly affects sebum production and provokes hormonal imbalance
• Aggressive care – excessive cleansing, use of alcohol-containing products and frequent peelings injure the skin barrier, provoking a "rebound effect" with even greater sebum production
• Climate and seasonality – high temperature and humidity stimulate the sebaceous glands, so the problem usually worsens in the summer

A diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids, zinc, B vitamins, and antioxidants, on the other hand, helps to normalize skin function and reduce inflammation. It is also important to remember that some medications (hormonal contraceptives, steroids, some antidepressants) can affect sebum production, so if you notice sudden changes in your skin condition, you should consult a doctor.

How to regulate sebum: practical tips

Controlling sebum production requires a systemic approach that combines proper external care and correction of internal factors. First, establish a regular, but not excessive, cleansing routine. For the face, it is enough to use a mild gel or foam cleanser twice a day, and for hair, choose the frequency of washing according to individual needs, without turning it into a daily necessity without a real need.

Including sebum-regulating ingredients in your skincare routine can yield tangible results. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) reduces pore size and regulates sebaceous glands, salicylic acid dissolves excess sebum in pores and prevents them from clogging, and zinc has anti-inflammatory properties and normalizes the glands. Retinoids accelerate cell renewal and help prevent sebum accumulation in pores.

Myths and truth about sebum

There are many myths surrounding sebum that lead to improper care and can even make things worse. We debunk the most common ones so you can build an effective care strategy based on facts, not misconceptions.

The most common myths about sebum and reality:

• Myth: Oily skin doesn't need to be moisturized - Reality: moisturizing is critically important for all skin types, lack of moisture provokes a compensatory increase in sebum production, it is only important to choose light, non-comedogenic, water-based products
• Myth: sebum can be "dried out" with aggressive products - Reality: alcohol-based toners and frequent peels injure the skin barrier and provoke even greater sebum production as a protective reaction, gentle care is much more effective
• Myth: Frequent washing "trains" the skin to produce more sebum - Reality: the frequency of washing should be selected individually, the sebaceous glands do not "learn" to produce more oil from frequent cleansing
• Myth: Sebum is only a problem for young skin – Reality: With age, sebum production decreases, leading to dryness and loss of elasticity, especially in postmenopausal women
• Myth: Oily skin doesn't age – Reality: While sebum does provide some protection, oily skin still needs anti-aging care and sun protection

Some believe that natural oils can replace sebum or regulate its production, but in reality, not all oils are suitable for oily skin – some can clog pores. It is important to adapt your care to the changes taking place in your body, and not to fight sebum as an enemy, but to learn to maintain its optimal balance at every stage of life.

Maintaining a healthy sebum balance

Achieving and maintaining optimal sebum balance is not a one-time task, but an ongoing process of adapting and paying attention to your skin’s needs. It’s important to regularly review your skincare routine according to the season, lifestyle changes, and age. What worked in the summer may be too aggressive in the winter, when your skin needs more protection and nourishment.

Seasonal adaptation of care helps maintain sebum balance throughout the year:

• Spring is a transitional period when it is worth gradually changing winter care to a lighter one, adding antioxidants and SPF protection due to increased solar activity.
• Summer is the time of maximum sebum production due to the heat, use light textures, mattifying products, increase the frequency of cleansing if necessary
• Autumn is a period of recovery after the summer sun, you can introduce peels and retinoids, gradually enriching the care with nourishing components
• Winter – even oily skin needs more hydration due to heating and cold, the balance between sebum control and barrier protection becomes critical

Keeping a skincare journal can help you track which products and habits are having a positive impact on your skin and hair, and which ones are causing excessive sebum production. Record not only the products you use, but also your diet, stress levels, menstrual cycle, and other factors. This will give you a complete picture and help you identify triggers for sebum problems, allowing you to adjust your skincare routine in advance.