Acne and the best ingredients to fight it: niacinamide, glycolic and hyaluronic acids

Acne is not just a cosmetic problem, but an inflammatory skin disease that requires the right approach to treatment. Millions of people around the world struggle with rashes, post-acne and traces of inflammation every day, looking for effective solutions. Modern cosmetology offers powerful ingredients that are proven to work against acne: niacinamide, glycolic acid and hyaluronic acid. Understanding how each of these components affects problem skin will help you build an effective care strategy.

What is acne and why does it appear?

Acne occurs when hair follicles become clogged with sebum (oil) and dead skin cells. Cutibacterium acnes bacteria, which live on the surface of the skin, enter the clogged pores and cause inflammation. This leads to the appearance of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads), papules, pustules, and in severe cases, cysts.

The causes of acne can be different: hormonal changes, stress, poor diet, genetic predisposition or the use of comedogenic cosmetics. In adolescence, acne is most often associated with hormonal fluctuations, while in adults (especially women after 25 years of age) it can indicate problems with hormonal balance or polycystic ovary syndrome.

Acne treatment should be comprehensive and include not only external care, but also work on internal factors. However, correctly selected active ingredients in cosmetics can significantly accelerate recovery and prevent the appearance of new rashes. Niacinamide, glycolic acid and hyaluronic acid are the three most effective components in the fight against acne, each of which works in its own way.

Niacinamide against acne: a universal fighter against inflammation

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the safest and most effective ingredients for treating acne, suitable even for sensitive skin. It works in several directions at once: reduces inflammation, regulates sebum production, strengthens the skin's protective barrier and reduces post-acne pigmentation. Numerous studies confirm that even a 4-5% concentration of niacinamide gives visible results after 4 weeks.

Acne and niacinamide are the perfect combination for those looking for a gentle yet effective solution. Unlike harsh acids or retinoids, niacinamide does not cause irritation, peeling or photosensitization. It can be used morning and evening, combines perfectly with other active ingredients and is suitable for long-term use without the risk of addiction.

Niacinamide is particularly effective in combating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the dark spots that remain after acne has healed. It inhibits the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, which leads to a gradual lightening of the spots. Regular use of products with niacinamide helps not only to heal active rashes, but also to achieve an even skin tone without traces of past problems.

Glycolic Acid and Acne: Powerful Exfoliation for Clear Pores

Glycolic acid belongs to the group of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and is one of the most effective for treating acne due to its small molecular size. It easily penetrates the deep layers of the epidermis, dissolves the “glue” that holds dead cells on the skin’s surface, and stimulates cell renewal. This prevents clogged pores, the main cause of comedones and inflammation.

Acne and glycolic acid are a time-tested combination for those with oily or combination skin with persistent breakouts. Regular use of glycolic acid at a concentration of 5-10% for home care helps keep pores clean, reduces sebum production, and improves skin texture. Professional peels with a concentration of 20-70% are performed in cosmetology offices and give faster results.

It is important to understand that glycolic acid can cause mild irritation and increased sensitivity to the sun, so it is best to use it at night and be sure to apply SPF during the day. Start with low concentrations (5-7%) 2-3 times a week, gradually increasing the frequency as the skin adapts. Do not combine glycolic acid with retinoids in the same evening to avoid excessive irritation.

Hyaluronic acid for acne-prone skin: hydration without greasiness

Many people with acne mistakenly believe that their skin doesn’t need moisturizing, especially if it’s oily. In fact, dehydrated skin compensates by producing even more sebum, leading to a vicious cycle of problems. Hyaluronic acid is an ideal moisturizer for acne-prone skin, as it has a light, watery texture and is completely non-comedogenic.

Acne and hyaluronic acid work great together, as this ingredient can hold 1,000 times its own weight in moisture, providing deep hydration without feeling greasy. When the skin is sufficiently hydrated, its protective barrier functions properly, inflammation heals faster, and the risk of new rashes is reduced. Hyaluronic acid also accelerates tissue regeneration, which is especially important for post-acne healing.

There are several types of hyaluronic acid with different molecular sizes: low molecular weight penetrates deeper and works at the dermis level, high molecular weight remains on the surface and creates a moisturizing film. The most effective products contain a combination of different molecular sizes for multi-level hydration. Use hyaluronic acid in the morning and evening on slightly damp skin for maximum effect.

Acne: how to properly combine niacinamide, glycolic and hyaluronic acids

Niacinamide, glycolic acid, and hyaluronic acid can be used together, but it’s important to follow the right sequence and not overdo it. The optimal strategy is to use niacinamide and hyaluronic acid daily (morning and evening), and add glycolic acid 2-3 times a week in the evening as an exfoliant.

Morning routine for acne-prone skin:

• Gentle cleansing with gel or foam
• Niacinamide toner or a separate serum with 5-10% niacinamide
• Hyaluronic acid serum for wet skin
• Lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer
• SPF 30-50 is mandatory (glycolic acid increases photosensitivity)

The evening routine can be more intense. After double cleansing (hydrophilic oil + gel), apply toner, then serum with niacinamide, then hyaluronic acid. If it is evening for glycolic acid, apply it after toner on dry skin, wait 10-15 minutes, and only then apply niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. Finish with a night cream.

Acne requires patience and consistency in care. Don't expect instant results - visible improvements appear after 4-8 weeks of regular use. If after 3 months the situation does not improve or even worsens, be sure to consult a dermatologist for professional advice and possible prescription of systemic treatment.

Niacinamide and glycolic acid for acne: concentrations and forms of release

Niacinamide is most effective at a concentration of 4-10%. Lower dosages (2-4%) provide a preventative effect, while higher dosages (over 10%) can cause redness in sensitive skin. Look for niacinamide in serums, toners, or moisturizers. It is stable over a wide pH range and stores well, even in clear bottles.

Glycolic acid for home use should be in a concentration of 5-10% with a pH of 3-4 for the optimal balance between effectiveness and safety. Professional peels contain 20-70% and require the supervision of a cosmetologist. Acne and glycolic acid in the form of toners, serums or peels-exfoliants that are washed off are the most popular options. It is important that the pH of the product is low enough for the exfoliating effect.

Hyaluronic acid is effective at a concentration of 0.5-2%. Higher dosages do not provide additional benefits. The best form is a water-based serum, which is applied to damp skin immediately after washing or toning. Some products also contain B vitamins or extracts to enhance the soothing effect, which is especially useful for acne-prone skin.

Side effects of glycolic acid and niacinamide for acne

Niacinamide rarely causes side effects, but 1-2% of people may experience redness or a slight burning sensation, especially at concentrations above 10%. This is not an allergic reaction, but simply an individual intolerance. If you experience discomfort, reduce the concentration or frequency of use.

Glycolic acid can potentially cause:

• Redness and slight burning immediately after application (this is normal in the first weeks)
• Peeling and dryness with excessive use or high concentration
• Increased sensitivity to the sun — be sure to use SPF
• Acne flare-ups in the first 2-3 weeks (purging) are a normal reaction when the breakouts "come out"
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation when used without SPF

Hyaluronic acid is considered one of the safest cosmetic ingredients and has virtually no side effects. The only caveat is that in very dry climates or in heated rooms in winter, it can “pull” moisture from the deeper layers of the skin if the environment is too dry. To avoid this, always apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin and “seal” it with a moisturizer on top.

Additional acne ingredients: what to combine with niacinamide and acids

Acne is best treated comprehensively, combining several complementary ingredients. In addition to niacinamide, glycolic and hyaluronic acids, effective ones include: salicylic acid (BHA) for deep pore cleansing, azelaic acid to combat pigmentation and inflammation, retinoids to accelerate cell turnover, and centella asiatica for healing and soothing.

Salicylic acid works great in tandem with glycolic acid: while glycolic acid exfoliates the surface, salicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores and dissolves sebum. You can alternate them (glycolic acid on Monday and Thursday, salicylic acid on Wednesday and Saturday) or look for combination products with both acids in balanced concentrations.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that pairs beautifully with niacinamide (despite the old myth that they are incompatible). Together, they provide a synergistic effect for post-acne brightening and free radical protection. Use vitamin C in the morning under SPF for maximum antioxidant protection throughout the day.

Acne and Niacinamide: When to Expect Treatment Results

Acne and niacinamide show the first results after 4-6 weeks: inflammation decreases, new rashes appear less often, post-acne gradually lightens. For a lasting effect, at least 8-12 weeks of regular use are required. Glycolic acid can provoke a short-term exacerbation (purging) in the first 2-3 weeks - this is normal, because clogged pores are "cleaned".

Hyaluronic acid provides an immediate effect of moisturizing and softening the skin, but it takes time to see lasting changes in the condition of acne-prone skin. After a month, you will notice that the skin has become more elastic, inflammations heal faster, and acne scars are less noticeable. After 3 months, there is a significant improvement in the overall condition and texture of the skin.

If after 3-4 months of consistent care with the right ingredients, your acne does not improve, it is a sign to see a dermatologist. You may need systemic treatment (antibiotics, hormone therapy or isotretinoin). Cosmetic care is effective for mild to moderate acne, but severe forms require medical intervention.

Conclusion: Niacinamide, Glycolic and Hyaluronic Acids for Acne

Niacinamide, glycolic acid, and hyaluronic acid are a trio of ingredients that have been proven to work against acne and its consequences. Each one performs its own unique role: niacinamide reduces inflammation and regulates sebum, glycolic acid exfoliates and unclogs pores, and hyaluronic acid provides essential hydration without greasiness. Combining these ingredients in your daily routine can significantly improve the condition of problematic skin.

Remember that acne is not only a cosmetic problem, but also a medical problem that can have deep internal causes. External care with active ingredients is an important part of the treatment, but not the only one. Pay attention to nutrition, stress levels, sleep quality and hormonal balance. Be patient and consistent, give the products at least 3 months to work, and don't be afraid to seek professional help when needed. Clear, healthy skin is a realistically achievable goal with the right approach.